Bolognese
Although Americans probably eat more spaghetti with meat sauce than Italians, the “meat sauce” is usually a less fresh version of marinara with some ground beef thrown in. That is not Bolognese. I do not claim to be an expert on Italian sauces, but I do know what tastes extraordinary, and is not red sauce with hamburger in it. No jarred meat sauce can compare to a well made, time intensive Bolognese. Below is a luscious, dimensional Bolognese which is relatively easy (it takes 2 hours not 2 days).
2 red onions, diced (don’t sub yellow or white, you want the sweetness)
4 garlic cloves, diced
8 oz guancaile, panccetta, or in a pinch (and more economical) bacon ends
1/2 cup olive oil
3 Tbls tomato paste
1 1/2 cup robust red wine (preferable Italian)
2 - 28 oz cans whole, peeled San Marzano tomatoes
1/2 pd sweet Italian sausage (bulk OR removed from casings)
1/2 pd hot Italian sausage (bulk OR removed from casings)
2 eggs
1/4 cup shredded Pecorino Romano or fresh Parmesan Reggiano
In a heavy dutch oven or stock pot, heat the olive oil to a medium heat. Add the diced onions, stirring as they wilt, about 6-8 minutes.
Add the diced guancaile and stir occasionally for another 5 mins.
Add the tomato paste and garlic, blending well and letting toast for another 4 mins.
Add the wine, stir to blend and reduce until syrupy (about 10 - 12 mins)
Add the 2 cans of tomatoes with their juices (do not drain!!) and gently, with a potato masher or fork, break up the whole tomatoes. Salt and pepper liberally. Simmer, uncovered for 30 mins, stirring occasionally.
Mix the 2 sausages, 2 eggs and pecorino with your hands.
Turn the sausage mixture into a large skillet and press down so it is one big patty, even depth from middle to edges. Cook on medium heat until the edges are done. With a spatula divide the meat into quarters and flip over each quarter. Don’t worry if it falls apart a bit. Cook until the juices/fats start flowing and it looks done (it does not have to be cooked well-done - it will cook more in the sauce.) Move to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb the fats. Once cooled coarsely chop the meat mixture.
Once the tomato mixture has simmered for 30 mins, add the meat mixture and simmer for another 30 mins.
Enjoy over tubed, ribbed pasta, in a lasagna or spooned over crusty bread, with a turn of Parmesan and a nice glass of Barbaresco.
*adapted from NYTCooking and my memory of my friend Paul Grignon’s Bolognese
